Nov 1^st, 2012 Delayed

Made my way to the airport in the late afternoon with plenty of time to relax and kick back. Passing through security checks at any airport these days is unpredictable. By now, I should have learned to expect the unexpected. But a four hour plane delay?

The worse part of being delayed four hours is not sitting in the airport, twiddling your thumbs. Is knowing that you will miss your connecting flight. It really sucks and is totally out of your control. I would arrive within a half hour of my plane leaving for the States, But, Customs would take at least that long to clear and then trying to get to the other terminal... not possible. I cleared the customs area at approximately 10:30 PM. The plane was scheduled to leave at 10:35 PM. But wait, there's more!

When I finally arrived in Delhi, I had to leave the arrivals area and then make my way to the departure zone, which took about ten minutes. Guess what? When I tried to enter I discovered you are not allow in the airport unless you have a ticket that has not expired. A the time, I was not aware that the plane home was delayed till midnight, but a delay is what I was hoping for and why I wanted to gain access. Still, I was not allowed in. So India has a special area for people like me. There were ticket booths in this isolated zone but no one was working them, at least not at the United Airlines counter. No phone number to call, no one from the airport able or willing to help, another than to say “come back tomorrow”. And none of the other airlines offering some insight to their system. I will spare you with the rest of the details of my ordeal. Suffice, if not to say, no one ever showed up to the United/Continental ticket counter but I finally received some assistance at 7:30 PM the following day. But the military security still would not let me pass until a ticket was issued. The representative had to go inside the airport, book me a ticket and bring it out to me, which finally satisfied the military. (Sorry, no photographs to show you the chaos at Delhi's Airport I was happy to get out of there and will do everything I can not to fly through India again.

So, that's my story! Hope you've enjoyed it. I've filed my papers to start a non-profit foundation and hope to return to Nepal next year with a team of biologist and educators to document exactly what's out in that jungle and to help the Sherpa people improve their lives without compromising their lifestyle. If you'd like to join the project, or contribute, contact me at canislupusproductions@gmail.com. We'll be lunching a website ((nepaltigers,org) by January 2013.

Oct. 30^th, 2012 – Bus ride home

I had a restful night sleeping in the dormitory. After walking 9 hours the day before, I was pretty much out for the count.

The buses are cued up and scheduled to leave at 5:30 AM and 6:30 AM. We decided to purchase tickets for the 6:30 AM bus.

So, you know those photos of people setting on top of the bus's racks? Here's the deal. All these buses are privately owned and operated. They will sell you a ticket, even if the cabin is sold out. You can wait for the next bus the following day, or you can stand in the aisle or sit on the roof. Same price. My guides assumed, and rightfully so, I would not want to sit white knuckled on the roof for ten plus hours, so we purchased tickets early and secured three seats. Our forth team member stood in the aisle for part of the way then went up on the roof until we reached the Kathmandu city limits. At which time the bus company made every one come inside the bus.

At what point in time do those of us living in countries that have been through such exploitation, and evolved past it, stand up for the less educated and tell them this is not acceptable? Do we have that right? That duty?? Do land borders supersede human, or for that matter, animal rights when it comes to the basic needs of a society or the individual? Greed and selfishness seems to be inherent in our species, but I would argue that we are better than that. By this point in human history, reason should have long since over ridden the selfish gene we've been passing down from generation to generation. I had a lot of time to think about this topic on the ten plus hour ride into Kathmandu.

Once back in the city, I sorted out all my dirty clothes, packed up my scat samples, and made preparations to leave Nepal the following afternoon. A short plane ride to Delhi, India, then a 14 hour flight back to the States.

Oct. 29^th, 2012

Last night, we had a little celebration.  We had potato mash for dinner, a local favorite among the Sherpa people.  The potatoes are boiled, peeled, then mashed by hand to a very fine consistency.  Its then place in a pot and cooked again, then served with a broth.   I helped pound down the potatoes and discovered how weak I am.  It was a lot harder than it looks.  Maybe it was the lack of oxygen, or maybe my body is just a spent unit.   In any case, I could only pound it a few times before handing the job over to another.

Dinner was followed by a lot of chung, conversation, and dancing to Nepalese music.  To a guy who listens to jazz and normally only dances to salsa, this was an interesting change. As isolated as many of the villages are from social services, I wondered how children were born out here.   A local doctor?   A Mid-wife? Nope.   Babies are born here the same way they've been born since the beginning of the human species.  All of the men on my team were born at home, without the help of western medicine.  “Sherpa women are strong”, I was told, and that very few children or mother's die out here as a result of natural child birth. Fascinating, I thought.

A product of natural child birth

We took off around 0730 hours the next morning after breakfast.  We were still above 2,500 meters so, it was no surprise that every uphill step I took was a struggle.  We made it to the nearest town by 11:30 AM, stopping for lunch.    Along the way, I came across a man on the trail.  His gaze was vacant, his clothing torn and dirty.   He stared at me as I walked towards him. “Namaste”, he said as I approached to pass. “Namaste”, I replied, smiling but continuing forward, in an attempt to pass.   He stuck out his hand. It was dirty.  Really dirty, showing the signs of a very hard life.   I looked at it, and him as I reached for his hand.   I could not help but think of how many people back home may have declined to shake his hand, or perhaps offer a knuckle instead.  Or maybe reluctantly shake the man's hand but immediately feel the need to breakout the hand sanitizer.   After our exchange, I continued down the trail, then focused on the hand that had just touched another's, and wondered, what is humanity?

In the next village we passed through, before dropping in altitude, I was reunited with a little girl I had met the year before.  It made me very happy to see her.

My young friend and her brother in 2011

My young friend 2012

Soon after passing through this village, we were able to bypass the trail through the farm fields and walk on the unfinished road they are building that will allow buses to travel further into the mountains, reducing the walk time for many of the villagers that are traveling back from Kathmandu.  Once we dropped below 2,500 meters, I felt like myself again, able to walk at a brisk pace and keep up with the others.

Some villagers are trying to discourage littering on the trails

Some people still don't get it

We made it to the buss staging area in the village of Dareh before night fall.  After dinner, we all sacked out for the night in a dormitory style hotel.   Although I was still in rural Nepal, life felt a bit different.

Oct. 28^th, 2012 – Another Leopard sited

So, I miss understood the travel arrangements spoken by my interpreter for returning home. And my guides misunderstood my desire to return to Kathmandu as soon as possible. I had hoped to start the walk back today, meeting up with the other team members we left in the jungle, back in Kathmandu. But, instead, they will be coming to my location and we will be leaving together, tomorrow morning.

By mid afternoon, the men came out of the jungle with their findings. The tiger did not return to the kill site, but a scavenging leopard did! Not the same leopard we captured on film a few days ago (if you compare the photos taken, you can clearly see the difference between the two animals). This is not the animal responsible for the kill. (Paw prints left by this leopard are smaller than the ones discovered the day after the kill). Leopards are solitary animals but the territory of this leopard and the one we spotted days ago are very close to one another, overlapping the suspected tiger's territory. I can not judge sex by photographs alone, but my educated guess would be that we've camera trapped a male and a female leopard. Not the photograph of a tiger staring into the camera lens that I wanted, but pretty cool, nonetheless. We'll be leaving a few cameras behind to monitor these cat's activities.

New leopard scavenging two days after kill

New leopard feeding

I said goodbye to those team members that will remain in the mountains, returning to their villages. We all are proud of what we've accomplished during the past twenty days. These guys weren't just hired help. This is their home and their heritage. They were as excited as I was whenever we discovered a new track, or located fresh scat. They believe, as I do that the presence of tigers (and leopards) will help stimulate the economy of the mountain people. Not one person we contacted, even the woman who lost her calf, thought that trying to protect what tigers remain in the area was a bad thing. I think helping them receive compensation for any losses incurred due to wildlife predation, will keep them on the side of the tiger.   

Core team members

Its clear to me that I could not have documented the presence of large predators in this area of Nepal without the help of the Sherpa people. I am sure tigers are here, however, their numbers are much lower than the elder villagers had noticed during their youth. Educational awareness and protection from human anger is what is now needed.

So, the plan now is to start a foundation. We'll set up a study area next year in order to document exactly what is out here. We need to know exactly what we are dealing with as far as cat numbers, prey base, territory size, health, etc.

This is very exciting.

Oct 27th, 2012 
We broke camp yesterday and continued traveling south after documenting the tiger kill site. We set up a camera trap pointing directly at the fallen calf, in hopes that the tiger will return in a day or two to finish feeding on the kill. I left Tsering and Dawa behind to monitor the camera trap and talk with a few more of the locals about tiger activity. We are now staying at the home of one of my Sherpa guides, about two hours walk from last night's camp site. I visited this family last year and was happy to know they have remembered me. They have made some improvements on their home since my last visit. Then, we had talked about the health dangers of having an open fire pit within the home. To my delight, they constructed a base level internal wood burning stove from which they cook on and draw heat. They also constructed a more enclosed outhouse and build a shower stall. They previously showered or bathed under a waterline in the open air. Needless to say, during the winter, a full body wash with cold water only took place on mild sunny days. An added bonus to their shower stall was heated water! They routed a water pipe from the spring into the house and through the wood burning stove, then back out to the shower, allowing them to bathe daily, if they wished. You can't imagine how much pleasure I received from being able to take a luke warm shower after camping out and cleaning up with cold mountain water for almost 20 days.

We had a bit of confusion this morning on when we are to return to Kathmandu. I would like to leave now, in order to hit the Chitiwan preserve before returning to the States. I had to send one of the Sherpa guide back into the jungle to clarify what I thought the plan was with Tsering, the guide who speaks the best English, on when we are heading back to Kathmandu. In any case, rest is great but this will be a day wasted.

Open fire pit, common within the homes of Sherpa people

Improvement on cooking facility

Oct 26th, 2012 Lightning strikes twice!
Finally, I woke up to some good news!  One of our cameras captured a leopard passing through!

The locals had told us they have seen both leopards and tigers in the area.  Now we have a full body visual on the leopard.  I can't tell you how happy that makes me feel.   In science, facts are everything. I could interview ten thousand Sherpa people but their eye witness accounts would not prove creditable. The leopard's photograph, the tail or a tiger/leopard, paw prints and scat collect provides me with the scientific evidence I was looking for.  I am still hoping for a tiger photograph but the leopard photograph is a close second in my book.  Neither one of these species was believed to exist in this part of Nepal.  Although part of their historic range, they were believed to be expired here.  I would say that it is pretty cool to be the one to have “discovered” these two species here, but as the Native Americans probably said to Columbus, “How can you discover something that had been long ago found?” So, I want to be the one that makes sure the two species do not disappear.   

Leopard captured on camera trap

The IUCN (International Union for Conservation of Nature) lists the Asiatic leopard as Near Threatened and the U.S. Endangered Species List (ESA) has them listed as endangered.  The subspecies known to live in Nepal is the Indian leopard (Panthera pardus fusca).  According to Wikipedia,

“They are becoming increasingly rare outside protected areas. The trend of the population is decreasing.”

The actual number of leopards living in Nepal is unknown.   The tiger population in Nepal, however, is believed to be around 176.  The are listed as endangered on both the IUCN and ESA.  As with the leopard, the tiger species found in Nepal is said to be the Indian or Bengal tiger (Panthera tigris tigris).   Any tigers found outside established preserves in Nepal would be very significant. And that is why we're here.

Also this morning we received another good lead on a tiger sighting. This one is so fresh, the hour or so walk up hill to 3,265 meters, the lack of oxygen in my lungs, even the cold frigid air is worth the trek.    A fresh tiger kill. Wow.

The word of are investigative tiger activity in the area has spread throughout the villages in these mountains.   A women attempted to call us last night to tell us that she had just witnessed a tiger killing her calf that afternoon.  We didn't receive the call until this morning but she said that the calf is still at the kill sight and that she would take us to it.  This is pretty cool! With any luck we should be able to collect some great samples.

The kill site was amazing and the woman was very credible.  She was able to get a real good look at the tiger as it was killing her calf.  She was very frightened, to say the least, and did not stay in the area.   She ran back to her home, and then a neighbors house to find help.   She then telephoned one of our team members to relay the story.

Tiger kill site

Paw print believed to be from a tiger

We were able to collect a few good prints from the site and decided to set up a camera for two days in hope that the tiger would return to the kill site.

This was a very good day.

Oct 25th, 2012 - Did I mention the cold? 
My remaining time here is growing short, as are the days.  The air is becoming progressively colder (which I am sure I mentioned in earlier posts). Having only a ball cap for my head, and an U.S. Army jacket and a few layered tee shirts to help keep the heat in my body, every day is a cold day for me.  The clouds  literally, pass through our camp almost every morning.   The nights are almost always cloud free, the stars ever present overhead.  Its beautiful; really beautiful, but really cold. I keep reminding myself that people live up here, so don't be a wimp, Brooks!  Suck it up and enjoy the beautiful star lit nights, and try not to get attacked by a passing leopard when leaving your tent during the night to relieve yourself.

I've decided to take the four good cameras we have and concentrate them in one area. This will be the area where we captured the photograph of the cat's tail.  This animal's prints were headed east.  Hopefully, it will be coming back through tonight.  Regardless of its movement, we will be moving to the southeast tomorrow. I'll leave one camera trap here, on an established trail, however.  I need to have the team cover a few more areas before heading back down to Kathmandu.   Nonetheless, I am confident the scat and prints we collected will prove to be that of a tiger. 

Oct 24th, 2012 - Colder Days and Nights 

Another disappointing morning.  

Excuse me.  I meant to say, another cold disappointing morning.  I know, I know. But my inpatients will not be virtuous in this situation. If I were still in my twenties, I am sure that I would not let the cold and the No activity captured on the camera traps bother me. (but I am not in my twenties and am now questioning where are the tigers? It would be nice to see just one more image on the camera traps.  We need to think about moving camp deeper into the jungle as the "tiger" may have moved to a different area with the coming cold.  Not sure, really.  How tigers behave in Nepal is all new to me. Before I left Kathmandu, I received an invitation to observed tigers in the Chitawan preserve.   I did not have time to do so before beginning our tiger trek. I am hoping to do so upon my return. That will allow me to compare our notes with known tiger tracks, scat and alike.

Huddling in front of the fire in a villager's home

On another note, the girls working close to our camp have moved their cattle operation down to a lower elevation.  The days are getting short and the air is getting a bit too cold for the cattle. 

The girls were a wealth of information. We thanked them for all their help and wished them well.

Sherpa "Cattle Girls"

Oct 23^rd, 2012 Den Site

We had no tiger or big cat movement last night, and unfortunately, we woke up to a bull yak that came down into the area with the aim of displacing the current top dog. Or rather, the number one bull on the mountain. The mean bull yak belongs to another herder, grazing a smaller heard to the south. This bull yak is much older and larger than the current heard leader and took over the heard with out much of a fight from the other bull yak. Problem was, yaks don't like people they've never seen or smelled before. That would include Americans. I was in no position to argue with the yak, knowing that he could easily run me down.

The yak's tail stood at attention as he glared directly at me; squaring off for a challenge. I exerted just enough energy to jet across to the other hill. A safe distance away but out of breath, I retained the feeling of being totally helpless. Rather get clawed by a tiger than gored by a yak, I thought to myself.

The girls moved their herd off a safe distance away from our camp and both bull yaks followed. After a quick breakfast we beat feet out of the area in search of the reported tiger's den.

The area we found was as the village woman had described. A large matted area in the jungle with fallen trees where she had observed, from a far distance, tiger cubs playing and destroying tree branches. We had hoped to find good prints in the area, or even the carcass of a dead cub. The prints we believed we found were marginal. The tigers had left the den long ago and nature had begun to reclaim all traces of prints left in the earth. No dead tiger cubs were found, which I suppose is a good thing, But I would imagine tigers born in this area would have a high mortality rate.

However, this den represents to me more concrete evidence that tigers do occur in this part of Nepal. We'll give it a few more days before heading back towards Kathmandu.

Stripped branches.  Possible the work of tiger cubs

Possible tiger cub toy

Photographing inside a possible tiger den site

Scratching possibly created by tiger cub

Oct 22^nd , 2012 A Tiger's Tale
We checked the camera this morning, hoping to find a tiger posing nicely for us.   Again, no such luck.  But, to our great surprise, one of the cameras was able to snap a photo of an animal passing through. It passed through so quickly, the camera was only able to snap a picture of the animals tail.

A tiger?

Not sure.  Maybe.

Less than two-thirds of the tail was photographed.  This could be a leopard or a smaller cat as the scale of this animal is not apparent.   I'm just not sure and without a known tail to reference this one against. I can only hope and go with my best guess. Ironically  I had a dream last night that we photographed the tail of  a tiger. 

We are all smiling today having move a step closer. The tracks we've viewed up till now and this photograph of this tail, tell us that some sort of feline predator lives here. We will set up an additional camera in this area tonight. Hoping to catch the animal traveling back through.

Two Sherpa girls are tending cattle a cross the way from our camp site. One of the girls told us that she has seen both tigers and leopards in the area every year she has been out with her cattle.  Her last sighting being April of this year.  To our delight, she said that she has seen more tigers than leopards. She described the sound a tiger makes as a barking, and similar to the sound a bull yak makes. She also told us that she has seen many paw prints of both large and small tigers. I asked the young woman how she was able to determine the print of a tiger from that of another animal. She said the print looks like a dog's paw print, but with out the claws. The young woman also successfully described both tigers and leopards and identified them both through photographs. I smiled with amazement at her biological skill.

The morning is very clear, so we are taking the opportunity to hike up to over 3,150 meters to get a glimpse at Mt. Everest today. Once there, we could only see the tip of the mountain over the view of the other mountain peaks, but I figured this was as close as I would ever get to seeing the the tallest mountain on planet earth.

The tail of a tiger or leopard?

Mt. Everest to the lower left of my pole, surrounded by clouds

Three Sherpa guides with two Sherpa cattle women pointing to Mt. Everest

Part of the Himalayan mountain range as seen from 3,150 meters

Oct. 21^st. 2012 – Growing old

Checked all traps this morning and the results were not what we had hoped for. No cat movement at all. Still, we are all hanging in their with the hope the elusive animal we seek will pass through again, soon.

All of the team members, save me, were born in these mountains, so the experience of living in the sticks and walking through the mountains daily is no big deal for them.  I was born in the city.  Oakland to be exact, and although I enjoy the outdoors and camping, my back is starting to feel the hardness of the earth during the night and longs for something a bit more comfortable. The nights have become increasingly colder as well. In some respects, though, I look forward to walking up a hill (for a short distance) just so that my body will generate some heat.

When I arrived in Nepal I was hoping to purchase rechargeable “C” and “D” batteries for the camera traps I had brought along with me. Purchasing them here instead of bringing them along lightened my travel load.  I did not think it would be a problem locating them in Kathmandu. To my surprise, only AA batteries can be found in a rechargeable form in this country. Since I am leaving the cameras in Nepal, I was hoping to reduce the amount of batteries we commit to garbage heaps in this country as I am pretty sure Nepal does not have a special place they put spent batteries.

On a positive note, we located more old cat scat, scratch markings, and the remains of a goat.  A local villager we met in the area said tigers use this particular area in the summer; during monsoon season.  Good to know.

We'll be placing the cameras traps out again tonight, with our finger's crossed.

Thickness of some parts of the jungle

Old feces

Oct 20th, 2012 - "I See You"
We woke up to another disappointment. No images on the camera traps and no new paw prints. Patience, I keep telling myself. Don't move the cameras just yet. We have no idea the actual size of this animal's territory, so it may be several days before it returns this way. One villager told us tracks are spotted every four or five days. I am hopeful this pattern continues.

We broke camp after breakfast and set out further into the jungle. Travel time for me was about one hour. The direction was southwest. We heard reports of a villager tending her cattle that had recent contact with a tiger.

People find each other out here using a human form of echo location. Loud sounds vocalized in a call and response fashion. It is effectively used to find people and judge distance.

We were able to find the young woman in thirty minutes time and then followed her into her home for tea.. She told us that 3 days ago, she heard a tiger “barking” in the night. Very loud sounds, giving the impression that the animal making these sounds was very large. She said that she went out with a flashlight as her cattle may have been in jeopardy. She was not able to spot the animal. I asked the woman why she believes what she heard was a tiger? Through my translator she told me that this past April she saw a tiger in the day time and heard these same sounds coming from it. She said the tiger would pass through almost every morning. “I know what a tiger sounds like.” she said. I showed the young woman a series of photographs. Tigers, leopard, snow leopards and clouded leopards, I started with leopard photographs. “No, It wasn't this one” she said confidently. “it had stripes, not spots.” I flashed to the photographs of the adult tiger. “It was like this one, only smaller. And the head was smaller, like in the other one.” (photograph of the leopard.) She convinced me that she knew actually what she had seen. We asked her if she had ever seen a leopard in the area. “No” she reported. She then told us that in the village about an hour's walk south (one hour for them, maybe one and one half hour's walk for me) word surfaced of a calf being killed in the night by a tiger a few days ago. She said that villagers ran out and scared the tiger away but it had already killed the calf and was trying to feed upon it. The next morning, the villagers salvaged the meat from the calf. We decided to send one of our team members into the village to investigate.

The rest of our team headed back up north into the jungle and came upon an 80 year woman who has been living in the area for 30 years. Surely, she has knowledge of tiger activity in this area. She invited us into her home for tea and fresh milk. Inviting travelers into your home for tea or the alcoholic brew chung, is very common. She said without wavering that tigers live in this jungle. She told us that she used to see tigers frequently during the daylight hours but that the villagers “discouraged” the tigers to present themselves by harassing them, among other things. Now, she said “I only see and hear them at night.” She said that the last time she actually saw a tiger during the day was seven years ago.

She was able to describe what tigers look like and said that there are also smaller wild cats in the area. Some of the wild cats are feral cats she told us, the males often leaving a village family for the jungle, once they became adults. I was amazed when she told us that she was able to identify tiger scratch posts, scat and paw prints. “The female prints are smaller than the males, and right now we have a female in the area.” Wow.

Now on my second cup of tea, the old woman said “Its good that you are trying to find and protect the tiger. But is the tiger wanted you to find her, she would show herself to you.” Deep, I thought.

Now I couldn't resist.

“Do you know what a Yeti is?”

“Yes”

“Have you ever seen one?”

“No, but my father did. They (Yeti) are all gone now. They aren't around anymore. Died off.”

She told us that her father said they were “pre-human” beings that shared the mountains. She told us that very few of the Yeti were left when she was a child.

Fascinating.

Oct 19th, 2012 – More Camera Trapping
Couldn't sleep last night knowing we blew our first shot at recording this Himalayan predator. I had dreams throughout the night of seeing the image of a tiger captured by the camera trap. Wishful dreaming? Yeah. The movement of wildlife can be unpredictable but I am hoping this cat returns from the east to provide us with another opportunity to capture it on film.

We rose before the sun once again and headed out to collect the five camera traps. I walked out to the two areas closest to camp while two of the young Sherpa guides went to collect the cameras placed further into the jungle. I stepped carefully down the trail. Trying to control my breathing. When walking up hill, hyperventilating is a common occurrence for me at this altitude. Any animal would here me approaching. I kept my eyes on the trail as much as possible. Looking for fresh prints in the dirt. Nothing seen as I neared the first stationary camera. It snapped a photograph of me as I approached. Good to know that even though the temperature was currently below 32 ° F (0 °C) this camera was functioning. A ten minute walk to the next location. No prints seen in the dirt diminished the images in my mind of seeing the face of a tiger looking directly into the camera. “Here I am, John. You can return home now.” As beautiful as it was in these mountains. I was not prepared for the frigid air nor walking up hill everyday. The trek was not easy. I felt as though I were carrying me on my back every step of the way. I would not, however, give up until we photographed a tiger, or our allotted time had expired and I needed to make our way back to Kathmandu for me to be able to fly back to the States. Still, the sooner I could see a tiger with my own eyes, the better. I wondered if Marlin Perkins had issues such as this while filming Wild Kingdom.

The other team also reported that no fresh tracks had been observed and the their cameras did not record any movement. They did, however, find what appeared to be tiger scat and scratch pads. To my great disappointment, nothing was recorded on the camera I had check as well.

We'll be placing the cameras out again in the same locations. One of our cameras is still not working properly. We will be relying on just four cameras to document wildlife movement. We could actually use about five more cameras to adequately cover the trails. These trails our still our best leads given signs of recent movement.

None of the scat samples can be verified until we return to Kathmandu.

Follow established animal trial

Dawa photographs scratch pad

Documenting old feces

Oct 18th, 2012 Camera Trapping
We got up before sunrise this morning in order to go and check the three camera traps we placed out. We placed one in an area we were able to make out paw prints of cats walking an established trail. The second was at a junction, where a Stupa sits. We found cat scratching and old feces here. The third camera was also placed on a well traveled path were cat scratching in the dirt were found. Of the three locations we staked out, only one denoted any movement by cats. We found fresh prints! We were very hopeful to see a tiger on the footage... To our great disappointment, the camera at this location did not function. For some reason, it would not trigger. What a disappointment! Even though we have a few more weeks to find concrete evidence of tigers, I feared that this may have been the moment. An opportunity lost. We placed a different camera at the same location in hopes of capturing something tomorrow.

After breakfast, we headed southwest to meet with a village family living in the area. These people told us that they have seen many tigers in the area over the years. The family successfully identified images of tigers and the sounds they said the animals made. They told us that two to three months ago, their children happened upon a tiger den holding 2 or 3 cubs. The father said that his kids through things at the cubs, chasing them off. Unfortunately these kids where not in the area for us to interview. The couple did, however, tell us the general location of the den and pointed us to an area they said tigers pass through regularly. Upon investigating the area pointed out to us, we found two sets of paw prints close to one another, which could indicate the presence of a female tiger and cub. The paw sizes measured approximately 3x4 inches (7.6 cm x 10.1 cm) and 4x5 inches (10.1 cm x 12.7 cm). We set up two camera traps at this location. All five traps are now in place and our finger's are crossed.

Oct 17th, 2012 - Witness accounts 
We broke camp and moved further into the jungle, camping out in the grounds of an abandoned Buddhist monastery. This monastery is smaller than the active one we had just left and, again, has no inhabitants.

New camp site at abandoned monastery

Two young Sherpa girls are tending their cattle just below our location and today, we had the opportunity to talk with them, asking if they had ever seen tigers in the area. They both indicated that they have seen tigers in the area. Actually, a family of tigers. I listened to their stories and showed them a series of photographs of cats native to the area. The oldest of the two girls identified both tigers and leopards, saying she has seen and heard both species in these mountains. She also said that a tiger recently killed two of their calves and that she saw a tiger feeding on one of them. The calf was two years old. She took us to the kill site so that we could look for evidence of a tiger kill. The carcass had been picked clean. It had been killed approximately 20 days earlier. We were only able to find dried skin and bones. Even though the witness' story appeared to be credible, we decided not to set up a camera in the area, as the site was too remote and off any established wildlife trail.

Cattle owned by a Sherpa family

Guide locating feline scat

Cat paw print

We placed three camera traps in areas where we documented recently placed paw prints and where witnesses stated they have seen tiger activity. We'll check them in the morning.

Oct. 15^th, 2012 – The Milk Man Cometh

Again, up at 0500 hours. The sun made it safe to get out of the tent and the monks have begun their practice.

As we were heading out this morning, one of the team meeting chatted with a man who was bring fresh yak milk down to the monks. He claimed he has just been attacked by a tiger on the trail, east, leading into the monastery. A credible story? Perhaps. The man is in is '80's and had already had a few cups of chung, a locally brewed alcohol all that Sherpa people drink throughout the day. Thus, his perception may have been... clouded. Nonetheless, this is a lead we needed to follow up on, immediately. We gathered as much details as possible from the man and headed east, into the jungle, well outside our intended target area.

We climbed to over 3,000 meters. I was dying but determined to not stop. This jungle was beautiful. Lush green moss was ever present in the undergrowth. Many dense, as well as open areas. Suitable tiger habitat.

Location of pug mark

 Within an hour, we arrived at the alleged attack site. Fresh prints in the sand. The man had indeed, saw something. We were able to ID fresh pug marks (paw prints) in some of the sand present on the trail as well as feline scat. The prints were small (in the 3X4 inch range) indicating a young tiger or adult leopard. The scat and scratch post were old and may not have been dropped by the cat we were presently looking to locate.

Pug mark spotted on 10-15-12

Sample of known tiger Pug mark

Difference between tiger cub and leopard pug marks

We also met with a villager tending her cattle in the same area. She claimed that a tiger has been harassing her cattle for the past three nights and that she actually saw the tiger resting on the hill just below her a few days ago. She said she was frightened and once the tiger saw her, it moved off. We had the young woman look at a series of photograph of various cats that were historically found in the area. The young woman identified a leopard as the animal she saw. Its important to note that the woman's identification of a leopard does not mean she has never seen a tiger or know what one looks like. These people speak Sherpa language, which is different from Nepalese. Sherpa, literally means, the people from the east. They migrated down from the east and settled in these mountains. Their language, culture, and features are more in line with the people of Tibet, than the those of Nepal. In their language “Zeek” (tiger) is a big cat. That would also include a leopard.

Old scat found in the area of the "tiger" sighting

Feline scratching in ground, common
for both tigers and leopards.

We decided to set up a camera trap on this trail to catch a look at what may have “attacked” the man.

We walked back down to the monastery to interview the milk man, who had decided to take a well needed nap. He was of little help in this department, calling the photograph of the tiger, an elephant.